From sunny limestone crags in Spain to damp boulders in Wicklow, from frosty Himalayan peaks to Irish windy cliffs, 2017 was truly an amazing year and here are the rock climbing highlights of the year that gone by.
Hardest Female First Ascent EVER
Laura Rogora, age 15, has made the first ascent of La Gasparata, 8c+/9a (5.14c/d) at Collepardo, near Rome, which puts her in the running for making the hardest female first ascent in history. However, a few months later her record was beat by Anak Verhoeven.
Today I sent an hard project in “la cueva”: la gasparata. The first time I tried it it seemed very hard but today on my 4th go of the day everything has been perfect and I clipped the chain!! It had been really hard to choose a grade, at the end I decided to propose 8c+/9a but I wait for repetion 📸 Domenico intorre #montura #wildclimb #camp1889 #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing #klettern #escalade
Hi Tech Funk 8A
Michael Duffy makes first ascent of Hi Tech Funk 8A at Mall Hill, Co.Wicklow. Here is how Mr. Duffy discribes it:
The Irish ‘Duel’ this brilliant slab desperate consists of granite pebbles, smears and credit cards. It’s funky, it’s hi, it’s tech.
First Female 9a+
Margo Hayes has repeated Ramon Julián Puigblanque’s La Rambla (extension), 9a+, at Siurana – Valley in Spain. This was the first female ascent of a 9a+ route. Few months later (September) she also managed to bag the first female ascent of Chris Sharma’s Biography 9a+.
I am overwhelmed and humbled by the support I’ve received from the climbing community, and my family and friends near and far. None of us achieves our dreams alone, we do so together, and build on those who have come before us. We are a community that not only supports each other regardless of our backgrounds and differences, but is also one that realizes the importance of respecting and preserving our planet. The climbers at the cliffs in Siurana last weekend came from many nations, and were a snapshot of what the world can be like, one of support, communication, and peace. 👬👭👫🌍👫👭👬 Kudos to @honngy for the initial send… up next @jon_cardwell! Thank you @greg_mionske for capturing our try hard moments! 🎥 Xoxo Margo @thenorthface @petzl_official @lasportivana @dogearedjewelry
Voyager 8B+ SS for Dave Fitzgerald
Dave Fitzgerald (arguably the strongest man in Ireland) claims the 4th assent of Peak District test piece Voyager 8B+ SS. The problem was first climbed by Ben Moon in 2006 and had only been climbed by Niccolò Ceria and Ned Feehally before David’s ascent in March.
Rob Hunter x 40
Rob Hunter, a climbing coach, co-author of Fairhead Bouldering Guidebook, and boulderer, who put up dozens of hard problems in Mourne Mt, Wicklow, and Fair Head, set himself an ambitious goal to climb forty 8A (and above) boulder problems. The reason? Rob turned 40 in March, so what better way to celebrate your birthday than climbing some ultrahard blocks? Rob’s first 8A on the list was John 3.16 8A.
To celebrate my fortieth year I have an ambitious goal. This is one of forty 8A’s and harder that I aim to climb in 2017. John 3.16 8A, Cooley Mountains…Psyched to get started. Thankfully this one only required one afternoon between the showers. Wish me luck! #notbadfor40 #bouldering #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #training #strength #ireland #goals
Piolets D’Or 2017
The Oscars of Alpinism – Piolets D’Or 2017 (which acknowledges exemplary alpine ascents for the previous year) were unusually presented to two teams: Nick Bullock (seen frequently at Fair Head Meet) and Paul Ramsden for their first ascent of the North Buttress of Nyainqentangla South East (7046m) in Tibet (ED+ 1600m) and to the Russian team of Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov for their new route on the North Buttress (ED2: M7 WI5 5.10a A3, 1400m) of Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Gangotri.
American climber, inventor and mixed climbing pioneer Jeff Loweis receiving the Piolet Lifetime Achievement Award, joining the ranks of eight others who have received the award since the first was given to Walter Bonatti in 2009. Chris Bonnington and Wojtek (Voytek) Kurtyka are among those who also received the award in previous years.
YCS Grand Final Ratho 2017
It was a great tournament for Irish climbing squad in Edinburgh during Youth Climbing Series Final in Ratho. Three members of the Mountaineering Ireland team took podium places: In Male Youth D Sean Henchion took third place; in Male Youth D Matthew Murray took second place; and Michael O Neill convincingly won the Male Youth A. Well done to all participants and winners. Great result for Ireland.
Leviathan – Portrane Monster Defeated
Dave Ayton completes his long-term project Leviathan 8A, his first bouldering problem at this grade. Some may see this not so much newsworthy, but considering how busy Mr Ayton is these days ( he is a father of three and string-puller behind the busiest and biggest climbing gym in Ireland Awesome Wall Dublin and Cork), the send definitely deserves an accolade or two.
I’m so psyched! Its not every day you get to enjoy climbing beyond your own expectations of yourself. I’d wanted to climb this problem since I began climbing as a teenager but it took until now for me to actually believe i could. In the end it felt easy and fun. My first 8A Chuffed! #leviathan #climbing #bouldering #ireland #dublin #awesomewalls #8A #ngfcw #boulder #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #tryhard @awesomewallsireland @instablocstuff @lasportivagram @dmm_wales @lyonequipment @greatoutdoors76
Ueli’s Last Climb
On 30th April the climbing community woke up to the shocking news that Swiss Alpinist Ueli Steck – known as the ‘Swiss Machine’ – had died in an accident near Mount Everest. Steck was in the area with the objective of climbing the unrepeated West Ridge/Hornbein Couloir route without the use of supplementary oxygen. According to his Facebook Page, Steck had been acclimatising in the days prior to the accident.
Metropolis 8C?, Lough Tay, Co.Wicklow
Michael Duffy has made the FA of one of Ireland’s hardest boulder problems to date. Metropolis is situated in the beautiful and remote boulder field of Lough Tay and consists of big moves through the blank roof section of an amazing hanging boulder. If the grade is confirmed Metropolis will become Ireland’s hardest boulder problem second to Soul Revolution 8B+/8C in Glenmalure, Co.Wicklow. Video below:
Divided Years E8/E9 6c
John McCune, sends his dream-project Divided Years in Mourne Mt, Northern Ireland. As he reported on his Instagram: ”Divided years” has been a goal for the last few years… an hour away from where I grew up and in the heart of the kingdom of Mourne, it is a kingline. Today I put it all together and it all worked out. It’s been good, and it’s made me a better climber. I learnt to sport climb and how to try hard. Thanks everyone who’s held my ropes on this and kept up the good vibes. ”
Jornet’s Everest x 2
Spanish climber, Kilian Jornet, scaled Mount Everest twice in a week without oxygen. He claims to have raced up the world’s highest mountain in 17 hours just five days after summiting it in 26 hours. Jornet’s time is just 15 minutes off the record set by the Italian climber Hans Kammerlander, who climbed Everest in 16 hours and 45 minutes in 1996.
[EXPEDITION UPDATE] Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest twice in a week without using supplemental oxygen. For this ascent, Kilian Jornet left on May 27th from Advanced Base Camp (6.500m) and it took him 17 hours to the summit in a very windy day. From there, he returned to the Advanced Base Camp where he is resting with Seb Montaz. More info soon. Picture: Kilian back at the ABC _______________________________________________________ Kilian Jornet repite cima en el Everest por segunda vez en una semana sin usar oxígeno artificial. Para este ascenso, Kilian Jornet salió el 27 de Mayo del Campo Base Avanzado (6.500m) e hizo cumbre en 17 horas en un día con mucho viento. Desde allí, volvió al Campo Base Avanzado donde está descansando con. Más información pronto. Foto: Kilian de vuelta al Advanced Base Camp _______________________________________________________ Kilian Jornet repeteix cim a l’Everest per segona vegada en una setmana sense oxigen artificial. Per a aquest ascens, Kilian Jornet va sortir el 27 de Maig del Camp Base Avançat (6.500m) i va fer cim en 17 hores en un dia amb molt de vent. Des d’allà, va tornar al Camp Base Avançat on està descansant amb Seb Momtaz. Més informació aviat. #OurEverest Foto: Kilian de tornada a l’Advanced Base Camp
Fair Head Meet
For many climbers from Ireland first weekend of June can only mean one thing – FAIR HEAD MEET. The best and the coolest climbers’ meet in Ireland (perhaps in the world) attracts hundreds of climbers from the island and abroad. Known for its world-famous guests speakers and evening talks in Sean’s ”rustic” barn, the meet grows from strength to strength each year, attracting visitors from continental Europe and further afield.
This year’s meet saw Calvin and Clare Torrans delivering their absorbing talk about history of Fair Head climbing, as well Tom Randall providing us with insight into his speciality i.e. crack climbing and training.
Peace Brodda E7
Ricky Bell puts a new route at Buzzards Roost, Mourne Mt. As of today, there is still no footage available from this ‘intriguing’ send, but knowing Ricky, we can expect some mesmerising video soon. In the meantime, take a look at his eye -popping Vimeo series ”Through The Green Door”.
The Buddha Sits 8A+
Dave Fitzgerald makes a 2nd ascent of The Buddha Sits 8A+ (8B) in Windy Gap, Cooley Mountains. Here is what he had to say about his send: ”Yesterday I made the second ascent of ‘The Buddha Sits’ (8A+) in the Cooley Mountains. Despite some wind, I had to climb it with a drenched foot as the rain kept seeping down onto all of my starting footholds. Super happy to get this one finished! In my list of top 3 climbs I’ve ever done and hardest of the grade you will ever do.”
Rainman UK’s First 9b
Steve McClure finally ticked his long-term super project at Malham Cove to establish the UK’s first 9b, which he has appropriately named Rainman.
A toy for the boy
July proved to be a very successful month for Adam Ryan who (while on his quick visit in Val Masino, Italy) sent Toy Boy, which goes at mere 8A+. For Adam, this is the very first boulder problem at this grade…so a massive WELL DONE to him. A short clip below:
Leviathan defeated by Conor Orr
Conor Orr (16?) makes a remarkable send of Leviathan 8A, Portrane. To the best of our knowledge, Conor is the youngest Irish climber ever who climb a boulder of this grade. Well done.
McHaffie and Pasquill ticks The Big Issue (E9 6c)
James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill have made quick ascents of The Big Issue (E9 6c) at Bosherston Head, Pembroke. They both had an onsight attempt at the route, only to be thrown off by the technical crux. However, both returned the a few days later and completed the climb.
Third Ascent of Project Fear 8c
Polish climbers Łukasz Dudek and Jacek Matuszek made the third ascent of Project Fear 8c (550 m) on the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Italian Dolomites. The line – a relatively new variation on the famous Pan Aroma 8c – was established in 2014 by Dave MacLeod. So far Project Fear has seen only two successful attempts – the first ones to follow in Dave’s footsteps were Scottish compatriots Robbie Phillips and Willis Morris in 2015.
Judgement Day E7 6b, 6a
Second time this year ‘Fair Head’ hashtag popped on everyone’s Facebook feeds with the news that Rory Cummings and A. Moles established a new and rather a hard line. Route named Judgement Day was given E7 6b, 6a and as the grade suggests it’s not for all mortals. Description below:
Project Hard 9C?
Adam Ondra, ”a Czech machine’ has completed his long-term project at the Flatanger cave in Norway, which Adam graded 9c. It is the first route of the grade and the hardest sport climb in the world, which he has since named Silence.
Silence 9c, Flatanger, Norway. (formerly known as Project Hard). When I was climbing through the crux of this route, I felt like if I was in my own world, with my mind in complete silence, my body relaxed and flowing up the moves in complete harmony despite the extreme difficulty of the moves. When I reached the anchor, I wanted to scream, but I could not. Too overwhelmed to break the silence. pic by @bernardo_gimenez @climbflatanger @montura_official @lasportivagram @blackdiamond @mytendon @chimpbars @gardatrentino @ivavejmolova @pavelblazek
First Female FA 9a+
Anak Verhoeven made history for women in climbing when she sent Sweet Neuf at Pierrot Beach in France. She became the first woman to make a 9a+ first ascent.
Sweet neuf 9a+ First ascent • After having climbed Sang neuf, I had 1 climbing day left. Sébastien Richard suggested that I could try to link Sang neuf 9a with the 25 meter second pitch of Home sweet home 8c/+ and I accepted the challenge. After a rest day I climbed Sang neuf 9a again but this time I did not stop at the chain, but climbed on to the chain of Home sweet home. 😀 • This new route is now called Sweet neuf: Sang neuf & Home sweet home combined. • Photo by Sébastien Richard @belinda.metz – #rockclimbing #vercors #pierrotbeach #france #sweetneuf #9a+ #climbing – @lasportivagram @petzl_official #lasportiva #petzl #srcfc #heistsport
The Dice Project Goes Down
David Fitzgerald finally gets his first 8A First Ascent. The problem called Snake Eyes 8A (located in Glenmacnass, Co. Wicklow) saw many tries by many sweaty palms. Eventually, it’s melted under David’s hands. Brilliant effort.
The Dice Proj goes down!! I heard about this long-standing project when I first started climbing and watched the old footage of Gaskins trying it too many times to remember. It doesn’t look like much, but I love it nonetheless. Today, I feel very proud to have made the first ascent of Snake Eyes (8A). Wicklow climbing at its finest – crimping on dirt in the middle of nowhere. Surreal! Thanks for the 📷 @jonathan_redmond90 #climbing #bouldering #irishclimbing @moonclimbing @greatoutdoors76 @lasportivagram
Tolerance E8 6c
If success and commitment had a face, it would look like Rory Cummings. 2017 proved to be a dream-come-true year for this young and full of psych climber from The North. With three E7 in his bag and many more E6’s and hard boulders, Rory concluded his year with sending one of the hardest routes in Mourne Mt – Tolerance E8 6c. If there is one climber that you should follow in 2018, it has to be Rory.
First female 9b
31 year old Austrian climber Angela ‘Angy’ Eiter has become the first woman to climb 9b. Angy redpointed Adam Ondra’s La Planta de Shiva 9b at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain after spending time on the line over several trips in the last two years.
Fred Beckey R.I.P.
US climbing legend Fred Beckey has died aged 94. Beckey was widely regarded as one of North America’s greatest mountaineers, and perhaps the ultimate ‘dirtbag’, rejecting conventional security for a life devoted to climbing.
Following on from his incredibly productive bouldering season, David Fitzgerald put another few weeks to good use, but this time in Ticino (Switzland) and Maltatal (Austria). In a short period of time, Dave managed to send many ultra-hard problems, such as: Real Pamplemousse 8A, Boogalagga 8B, and Wrestling with an Alligator 8B, not mentioning other bunch of 7Cs and 8As problems he ticked during his ”Tour De Europa”. Check the video for more:
Intergalactic 8B For Rob Hunter
It was pretty impressive and busy year for Rob Hunter. In pursuit of his ’40 x 8A’ Rob sent Glenmalure’s test piece Intergalactic 8B. To the best of our knowledge this is only 3rd ascent of the problem. Great effort.
So psyched to climb Intergalactic 8B in the Wicklow Mountains. Felt the odds were against me today with a split tip from Font, dodgy weather and limited time as I was stuck in traffic for a few hrs on the way to Glenmalure. Turns out 30 mins was all I needed and I wasn’t late for work whoop whoop! Positive mindset prevails! #bouldering #passion #wicklow #lunch #strength #positivity #training #climbing #winter
First Female D15
Italian ice and drytool climber Angelika Rainer has become the first woman to climb D15 with an ascent of A line above the sky at Tomorrow’s World in the Dolomites, Italy. The line is considered to be one of the hardest drytool routes in the world, with only Gordon McArthur’s Storm Giant D16 surpassing it in difficulty.
Oh yes! ‘A line above the sky’, D15 went down today!!! Can’t tell how happy I am 😬🎉 When I tried the route for the first time 2 years ago, some of the single moves seemed very hard, really on my limit. Today, all 40 meters of overhanging climbing went smoothly!!! Thanks so much @tom.ballard for creating such a fun project close to home and thanks @marco_serva for coming to belay me, when my feeling said me that it could be the right day 😊😘. 📸 by Michael Maili. . . . #drytooling #iceclimbing #iceaxes #climbing #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbinglife #visionofemotion #kikuapples #angelikarainer @berghausofficial @lasportivagram @grivel @visionofemotion
Dave MacLeod @ IMC’s Christmas lecture
Dave MacLeod, one of the world’s most accomplished climbers, was a guest speaker of IMC 2017 Christmas lecture. Dave gave an inspiring presentation sharing accounts of his climbing adventures and some key defining moments that have shaped his career to date.
Team America in Antarctica
After nearly a month spent in the icy, shifting shadows of the Fenriskjeften massif, in the Drygalski Mountains, the six, The North Face sponsored American climbers ( Alex Honnold, Anna Pfaff, Jimmy Chin, Conrad Anker, Cedar Wright and Savannah Cummins), as well as Colombian documentarian-adventurer Pablo Durano, returned to civilization with news of summits via new routes and old.
Reporting on Instagram, Wright wrote, “It was by far the most productive trip to the alpine I have ever had. Partnered with [Alex Honnold,] we established 7 first ascents, and tagged 13 summits, including all the major summits in the range, except for Ulvetanna, which Conrad and Jimmy established an epic first ascent on in bigwall style. That means as a team we climbed essentially every major tower in the range!”
Houlding and Team Summit The Spectre in Antarctica
Spectre, the most remote mountain on Earth, sees it’s second ascent via Mugs and Edward Stump’s line from 1980. On Dec 10th Berghouse team, Leo Houlding, Jean Burgun and Mark Sedon have successfully climbed the Spectre (Gothic Mountains, Antarctica) via a route on the north side of the mountain. Although the team’s original intention had been to attempt a new route on the south face, the very variable weather and the difficulties (and extended duration) of their journey in to the area, limited the time available for climbing. After fully assessing options on site, the team made the decision that their primary objective should be to get all three members to the summit via the “route of least resistance”.